Keratin, Japanese or organic. What is the difference.
These three words appear on every salon sign, and they do not always mean the same thing. Here is what stands behind each one, and how to choose.
Three methods, three mechanisms
Keratin straightening adds protein to the hair and seals it with heat. It does not change the chemical structure of the hair but fills and coats it, which is why it is the most forgiving for damaged, coloured or bleached hair.
Japanese straightening (thermal straightening) breaks the sulphur bonds that give the hair its shape, straightens it with a flat iron and fixes it again. The result is completely straight and permanent, but the hair has undergone a structural change and the treatment cannot be repeated on the same hair without a risk of breakage.
Organic straightening is a marketing name, not a regulatory definition. It usually means a straightening based on proteins or amino acids without formaldehyde. The name on the bottle does not tell you what is inside, so check the registration and the ingredient list.
The comparison in one table
| Keratin | Japanese | Organic | Herboss (keratin and collagen) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| How it works | Fills with protein and seals with heat | Breaks and re-fixes the hair's bonds | Proteins or amino acids, formaldehyde-free | Keratin builds, collagen seals, set with heat |
| Result | Smooth and soft, natural movement | Completely straight, stiffer | Smooth, less straight | Smooth, glossy, soft to the touch |
| Restoration | Yes | No, it weakens | Partial | Yes, during the treatment |
| Coloured or bleached hair | Suitable | Usually not | Suitable | Suitable, with a strand test |
| How long it lasts | 3 to 5 months | Permanent, until it grows out | 2 to 4 months | Treated hair stays smooth; only the root is treated |
| Treatment time | 2 to 4 hours | 4 to 7 hours | 2 to 3 hours | 4 to 5 hours |
| Salon price range | 500 to 1,500 ₪ | 800 to 2,000 ₪ | 600 to 1,500 ₪ | Set by the certified salon |
How to choose
- If the hair is coloured, bleached or damaged, a structural (Japanese) straightening is a risk. Go with protein.
- If you want ruler-straight hair with no movement at all, Japanese straightening gives you that, at the cost of stiffness and of hair that cannot be treated again with the same method.
- If you want smooth, glossy and soft, with natural movement, and without giving up the health of your hair: keratin and collagen.
- In every case, check registration with the Ministry of Health and ask whether the formula is formaldehyde-free and glyoxylic-acid-free.
What happens to the hair with each method, at the fibre level
Hair has three types of bonds that keep its shape. Hydrogen and salt bonds are weak and change with water and heat, which is why a blow-dry smooths hair for a few days. The sulphur (disulphide) bonds are the strong ones, and they decide whether hair is curly or straight for good.
Japanese straightening opens the sulphur bonds with a reducing agent, straightens the hair with a flat iron, and fixes the bonds in their new position. It is a permanent change, and a permanent weakening too.
Keratin and collagen straightening does not touch the sulphur bonds. It fills the gaps in the fibre with protein, closes the cuticle over it and sets it with heat. The hair stays intact, so the treatment can be repeated, and the hair can be coloured and straightened again.
Organic straightening works in most cases on the same principle of protein or amino acids, at different strengths. What distinguishes the brands is what fixes the protein inside, and that is exactly the question about formaldehyde and glyoxylic acid.
By what you want, not by the name
| What you want | What suits | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Completely straight hair, no movement | Japanese | A permanent structural change. At the cost of stiffness and of hair that cannot be treated again with the same method. |
| Smooth, glossy, soft, with movement | Keratin and collagen | Filling and sealing, without breaking. |
| Restore coloured or bleached hair | Keratin and collagen | The protein gives back what the colour took out. |
| Soften and add shine without straightening | Nourishing treatment ("hair Botox") | No straightening needed. |
| Remove summer frizz without changing texture | Keratin and collagen with a short processing time | Closes the cuticle, keeps the waves. |
What to do after each method
After Japanese. Three days with no water, no hair tie, no clip. Colour only after two weeks, and with care.
After regular keratin. With most brands, three days without washing and without tying hair up.
After Herboss straightening. The hair is washed at the salon straight away at the end, with salt-free shampoo and mask. Hair ties and clips are allowed from day one. At home: salt-free shampoo and lukewarm water. Details.
Questions to ask before deciding
- What is the formula's registration number with the Ministry of Health?
- Does it contain formaldehyde or glyoxylic acid?
- What happens to my hair, which has been coloured or lightened, with this method?
- How long is the treatment, and what happens at the end?
- What happens in six months, when the root grows?
A salon that answers all five questions without hesitation knows what it is doing.
The common mistake: choosing by name
"Organic", "Brazilian", "silk", "nano", "hair Botox". The names change every year. What counts is the formula's composition, its registration, the training of the person doing the treatment, and the working protocol. That is why Herboss straightening is sold only to salons that have been trained on the formula.
Frequently asked questions
Can keratin straightening be done after Japanese straightening?
Yes. Keratin does not break the hair, it fills it, so hair that has had Japanese straightening in the past can also be treated. Japanese after Japanese, on the other hand, is dangerous.
What lasts the longest?
Japanese is permanent in structure, but the hair that grows in is new and natural. With Herboss straightening, treated hair stays smooth, and here too only the regrown root is treated.
Is organic straightening really chemical-free?
There is no straightening without chemistry. "Organic" is a marketing word. The right question is whether there is formaldehyde or glyoxylic acid, and whether it is registered with the Ministry of Health.
What is best for very frizzy hair?
It depends on the goal. For completely straight: Japanese, at the cost of stiffness. To smooth, soften and restore: keratin and collagen with a processing time matched to the hair. The frizzy hair guide.
Which is healthier for hair, Japanese or keratin?
Keratin. It does not break the hair's bonds, it fills the hair. Japanese changes the structure permanently and weakens it.
Can organic straightening be done on hair that has had Japanese straightening?
Yes, because a protein straightening does not break bonds. It is important to tell the stylist about the Japanese straightening at the consultation.
HER BOSS Gold Line
Keratin and collagen. No formaldehyde. Registered with the Israeli Ministry of Health.1
Certified salon: Yulia, AshkelonFor salons and hair stylists